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written by Rough Guides Editors
updated 19.07.2021
As tourists start flooding into Myanmar (Burma), Melanie Kramers dives into the deep countryside to live like a local and discovers a beguiling mix of past and present.
Hand-rolled cheroot clamped between her teeth, the elderly woman stares hard at us and issues a guttural grunt. While it sounds like the kind of grumpy growl you’d expect from a monosyllabic adolescent, this is belied by the wide grin her weather-worn face creases into. It’s a noise we’ll hear frequently during our three-day trek through the countryside in Myanmar’s eastern Shan State. As our guide Do’h later explains, low-pitched grunts are how people express agreement in the local Pa'o dialect.
Before arriving in Myanmar I’d wondered what kind of reception we’d get. It was difficult to build up a picture of a country and people largely isolated from the world for the past 50 years. I’d seen pictures of flower-wearing opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi released from house arrest to participate in the first democratic elections in decades and read about foreign investment flooding in. Now I wanted to see what life was like in a nation apparently poised on the cusp of dramatic change.
Here in the fertile farmland between Kalaw and Inle Lake, the peasants manually working the fields appear stuck in a time warp. A group of four labouring women, wearing chequered orange headscarves that stand out vividly against the drab mud, pause to wave before returning to swinging their hoes in unison. It looks like backbreaking work in the fierce sun. Traditional gender roles are clearly defined in these rural communities; women sow seeds and weed while it's down to men to lead docile water buffaloes in heavy wooden ploughs – then take the afternoon off.
But back in the villages there are hints of modern influence, from a flash of neon green nail polish on a teenage girl’s toes to trendy bleached hairstyles you might see in a hipster bar. Although agricultural work seems completely unmechanised, roadside stalls sell pale yellow gasoline in recycled whisky bottles to those lucky enough to own shiny, new imported Korean motorbikes.
Atop a house made of woven bamboo in contrasting shades, Do’h points out a single solar tile gleaming on the corrugated iron roof. He says it generates enough power for an electric bulb or two at night and to watch the occasional DVD. Inside, a calendar bearing Aung San Suu Kyi’s face - until recently illegal - is now proudly pinned up.
Despite these signs, it’s hard to judge the pace of change among rural communities who we’re told have long preferred to keep to themselves to avoid government interference. Officially, March 2nd is a public holiday to celebrate Peasants Day, but the villagers continue working obliviously, taking their rest days according to the lunar calendar. However, we see several roads being built, indicating that modern, urban life may soon be roaring into these remote spots.
In dry season, the walk along dusty red earth paths is straightforward, though the intense midday sun necessitates strategic breaks under the shady canopy of sprawling 100-year old Banyan trees. Beside a rare river, emerald green onion shoots are growing in a seedlings nursery, while neatly ploughed furrows await potatoes on terraces stepped like an amphitheatre. I salivate over tall papaya and banana trees and am disappointed to learn that the blossoming mango trees won’t bear fruit till July. Do’h cracks open a white speckled custard bean. It’s used a laxative, he explains. Not quite what I was looking for.
In the afternoon we arrive at Kyauk Su village, home to about 10 families, and scoop water from the well to scrub off the rust-coloured dust stuck to our legs. Our smiling, grunting hostess indicates this should be performed from a bucket at one side, not where the washing up takes place.
At 6.30pm night arrives promptly and absolutely. Stars flicker brightly in the velvety blackness. Sitting indoors on bamboo mats at low round wooden tables, we’re served coriander-infused fish broth followed by fried noodles with tofu and garlicky watercress. After a sugar fix of sticky peanut brittle, the village’s young men invite us to join them round a crackling campfire, taking it in turns to strum a guitar and earnestly croon soft-rock love songs. We can’t understand the words but the emotion is palpable. Shamefully, the only tune our international trek group of eight all know is Frère Jacques. The boys clap politely then return to their ballads.
Our communal first floor bedroom is over a storage space piled high with fresh ginger, which adds a piquant spice to dreams. We sleep on thin mattresses lined up so the soles of our feet point away from the Buddha icon on a flower-bedecked shelf, to avoid causing grave offence.
I wake up to the soft whoosh of wings and chatter of small birds in the rafters above my head. Outside are the sounds of villagers beginning their day: the put-put of motorbikes as boys head into town, the rattle of coriander seeds being raked out to dry on a plastic sheet, children playing and water buffalo lowing. Our hostess comes in with small dishes of rice and water to place on the shrine, and we are treated to pancakes and a thermos of steaming green ginger tea.
I’m impressed by how welcome we’re made to feel as we pass through people’s intimate lives. Excitable children, cheeks smeared with pale yellow thanaka paste, a natural sun block made from crushed tree root, happily show off dance routines and pose for photos. Hosts are usually the older generation, who seem pleased to have a new, easier source of income now their hard fieldwork days are over.
But how long will foreign tourists be an interesting novelty? Larger Puttu village, where we stay on our second night, is an established base for trek groups, and has a notable difference in atmosphere. We’re told Myanmar received about 300,000 tourists in 2011, which rocketed to 1 million during 2012, with numbers set to shoot up even more this year.
Our experienced guide reflects that the income provided by increased tourism will benefit locals, but unless managed sensitively a jump in numbers could spoil the experience visitors are seeking. How will the Burmese adapt to meet the challenges ahead?
In Myanmar, locals greet each other by asking ‘Where have you been? Where are you going?’ In these changing times, it seems a very apt question.
10 days / from2372 USD
Old World Myanmar
Myanmar offers visitors a tantalisingly exotic culture of gilded stupas, red-robed monks and elaborately carved teak palaces. Discover the country’s rich cultural heritage as you take in its spectacular charms.
customize ⤍9 days / from2840 USD
Myanmar Family Adventure
An ideal short tour for families and first-time visitors to get a glimpse of what Myanmar is all about, discover the land of rice and rivers, breath-taking pagodas and stupas. Meet the locals in Mandalay, Yangon and Inle Lake and sleep on the Ayeyarwady for a real family adventure.
customize ⤍4 days / from383 USD
Love Yangon
Explore the intriguing architecture, captivating art and delightful culinary scene of Yangon with a visit to Myanmar’s bustling former capital.
customize ⤍10 days / from3427 USD
Myanmar Dreams
One of the least developed countries in Southeast Asia, Myanmar offers a magical visitor experience. From your base in some of the country's most deluxe resorts, get out and explore the untouched treasures that Myanmar has to offer.
customize ⤍9 days / from1126 USD
Classical Myanmar
Experience the best of Myanmar with this trip of a lifetime. See historic Yangon, before moving on to the great plains of beautiful Bagan with its ancient Buddhist pagodas. Discover Mandalay’s hidden gems, see ancient capitals and boat around Inle Lake.
customize ⤍12 days / from4044 USD
Famous Waterways of Myanmar: Inle Lake and the Irrawaddy River
Experience Myanmar as never before: cruise along the Irrawaddy River, take a boat trip around Inle Lake and Sagar, and fly over Bagan and its many temples in a hot-air balloon. This comprehensive trip also explores the cities of Yangon and Mandalay.
customize ⤍10 days / from2071 USD
Myanmar In-Depth
Get to know this fascinating and exotic country in more depth with this unique trip, which has been specially created to give a more in-depth understanding of Myanmar and its culture, and includes visits to Yangon, Inle Lake, Mandalay, and Bagan.
customize ⤍7 days / from1532 USD
Myanmar Honeymoon
Myanmar is the perfect destination for couples in search of a romantic getaway that marries luxury and indulgence with the sense of discovering a rich vein of cultural heritage. Visit the plains of Bagan with its many temple complexes, and luxuriate on the shores of Lake Inle, and much more.
customize ⤍8 days / from1390 USD
The Flavours of Myanmar: A Culinary Journey
Discover the tastes and flavours of Myanmar with this unique, culinary-themed trip. Frequent the teahouses of Yangon, learn how to cook traditional Burmese dishes in Bagan, sample local specialties in Mandalay, and then continue to Inle Lake, home of the Intha people, before returning to Yangon.
customize ⤍5 days / from842 USD
Majesty and Mystery in Myanmar
Less well-known than neighbouring Thailand, Myanmar is a country that still retains an air of exotic mystery. Discover it for yourself on this unique trip, which has been specially created to develop a greater understanding of this alluring country.
customize ⤍6 days / from1155 USD
Mesmerising Myanmar
Myanmar is a mesmerising and exotic land, shrouded in mystery and cloaked in spirituality. The mere mention of its name conjures up images of golden Buddhist stupas piercing dense smokey fog. This unique trip takes in some of Myanmar's most impressive and mesmeric sites.
customize ⤍13 days / from2049 USD
Myanmar’s Ancient Treasures
From the old-world charms of Yangon to the lush rice paddies of the Ayeyarwady Delta and the iconic sights that surround modern Mandalay, now is the time to visit the jungle clad hills and central river valleys of Myanmar.
customize ⤍4 days / from890 USD
Mrauk U: Myanmar's Best-Kept Secret
Discover the ancient city of Mrauk U with this unique trip. Formerly a major trading port, Mrauk U was once the wealthiest city in Asia. Today, it remains Myanmar's best-kept secret: its well-preserved archeological remains are surrounded by atmospheric misty hills, just waiting to be discovered.
customize ⤍10 days / from2508 USD
Off the Beaten Track in Southern Myanmar
This exciting, active trip is split into two parts: the first takes in the best that Southern Myanmar has to offer, including Yangon and Inle Lake; whilst the second ventures off the beaten track, exploring ancient pagodas, rivers, mountains and caves.
customize ⤍11 days / from2946 USD
Myanmar Highlights
A visit to Myanmar is a magical experience. Explore Yangon, with its busy harbour bustling markets and glistening pagodas. Encounter meditating Buddhas and traditional villages, and be awestruck by mystical Mandalay’s hidden gems.
customize ⤍Top image © ImageBySutipond/Shutterstock
written by Rough Guides Editors
updated 19.07.2021
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